Croatia Biking and Boating - By Sofia Hansson

Sun, Sea and Spectacular scenery - Island hopping at its best!

This autumn we were looking for something new and exciting to include in our 2009 programme and with the concept of a combined land and sea tour becoming increasingly popular we thought it would be a good idea to offer a bike/boat tour in one of our favourite countries – Croatia!

So, I embarked on a trip to the stunning Adriatic Sea and Croatia’s Dalmatian Islands.
Treasured by sailors from all over the world, these islands are dotted in a spectacular turquoise sea and display a breathtaking landscape of mostly untouched coastline, exotic cliffs, secluded beaches, peaceful forests and medieval towns rising to a mountainous backdrop – a scenic delight surely best explored by bike and boat combined!?

The tour starts in Dubrovnik, which is easily accessible from both Dublin and London. I managed to get a direct flight with Aer Lingus from Dublin, which takes approx. 3 hours.
When arriving at Dubrovnik airport there were many taxi drivers offering to drive me to the city centre for about 30 euro, but always check if there is a coach service running as this is much cheaper, and the town is only about 20 minutes away. I found a coach outside the terminal, only costing me 5 euro (35 Croatian Kuna).
However, if you (like me) have a return flight from Dubrovnik at the end of your tour, buses are only available from the city if there is a Croatian flight departing at the same time as your flight, which is pretty hard to find out and also might not be very reliable, so I would suggest to take a taxi for your return flight.

Please note that those who wish to book our featured bike/boat tour in Dalmatia should refer to the tour itinerary as per our website and brochure as this blog describes the tour with a slightly different route (but reading the blog will certainly give you a very good idea of what to expect from the tour!).

DAY 1 – Dubrovnik
The coach from the airport drops me of at Cruz Harbour, where the ship Romantica (my home for the next 7 days!) is docked.
Arriving onboard just in time for lunch (all meals are included in our tour package) I settle in and begin to get to know my fellow passengers. We are served a lovely 3-course meal that I enjoy while conversing with a friendly family from Utah – any initial nerves about the tour is now gone and I start to feel really good about what lies ahead!
The boat itself is a lovely motorised ship, with cabins above and below deck and a large dining area with fitted bar inside. There are also plenty of outside seating areas , perfect for those sunny days! My double bed cabin is nice and clean, and like all the others has a separate private bathroom and shower.
After lunch there is free time to explore Dubrovnik before the group meet up again for a guided tour later in the afternoon. I take the opportunity to walk up on the (amazingly well-preserved) town wall that surrounds Dubrovnik’s fairytale-like old city. There is a small fee to get up onto the wall, but the view from up there is well worth it! The walking tour of the old town was very useful and gave a real insight to the rich history of the city (that is also chillingly conveyed through the bullet holes that can be seen in the town wall).
Dinner in the evening onboard, with our full compliment of all 12 passengers, is followed by a presentation of the tour, our guides and the ship crew (including our private chef!). We also receive a taste of the traditional welcome drink Rakija, which is VERY strong (40 to 60 percent alcohol content!), so beware!



DAY 2 – Island Sipan & Island Mljet
Morning cruise to Island Sipan where our bikes are fitted out for our first cycle. All bikes are equipped with water proof back panniers, although the “waterproof” bit won’t really matter to us as the forecast promises warm weather with clear skies all week!
In the basking sunshine we head of with our two cycling guides (one always in the front and the other staying with the cyclists at the back to ensure that nobody gets lost). The morning is very pleasant and although we don’t receive detailed route directions (only overview maps), with 2 guides the chance of getting lost is minimal and it is nice not having to worry about “turning next right then left…”. I also appreciate the fact that there is no “rule” to cycle all together in a line and people quickly find their own pace. The route itself is relaxing and takes us through the countryside and some valleys towards the sea.
Making it across the island we stop for a quick swim before heading back to the boat – time to work on that tan on the sun deck!
During lunch we make a short and scenic cruise to the densely wooded Mljet Island (90% covered by forest). The afternoon cycle is the most challenging stage on the tour, but I do enjoy the incredible traffic-free roads, which makes the cycling much easier (coming from Dublin it is strange to not see a car for 3 hours!).
We finish up in the beautiful Mljet National Park, where I take the opportunity to cool down with an evening swim in the gorgeous lake Veliko Jez – the hills were quickly forgotten about!
Total distance today was 50km.

DAY 3 – Korcula Island
Another lovely day and a morning cruise over to Korcula Island and after a very filling breakfast we are ready for what lies ahead.
Today the boat will not meet us for lunch, but instead we are given lunch packages to enjoy at a stop along the way.
The cycle starts off with 10 km of very relaxing cycling along the sea front, followed by a 3km climb where most of us push the bikes, as it is too steep to cycle all the way. When we finally reach the top, our efforts are rewarded with stunning views of the sea and surrounding Islands and mountains. We can also see our boat afar looking tiny, which makes me realise just how high up we are!
The scenery today is really something special, and around each corner (and each hill!) there is a breathtaking view to appreciate. As lunch time approaches we arrive at Brna, where we take a couple of hours break, and enjoy our packed lunch and a well-deserved swim in the crystal-clear Croatian sea!
The afternoon cycle involves one gradually climb for about 4km, which I actually enjoy as it is not too steep and takes us through some very unique scenery of green-dressed mountain passes.
Descending down to our night-stop Vela Luka I am pleased to see the boat anchored the harbour - it is really nice to have your base to come back to each day. Onboard we quickly order some cold Croatian beer, which never tasted as good!
Total distance today was 60km, with some of the most spectacular scenery on the trip.



DAY 4– Vis Island
Today’s destination is Vis, a small (approx 90.3 sq km) and unique island furthest away from the central Dalmatian islands. Vis has been a military base since the end of the Second World War and only quite recently has foreigners been allowed to enter (no pressure then for a ship load of foreign cyclists heading for its shores!).
After lunch onboard we begin our cycle with a steep climb up to a viewpoint with stunning views of the sea, mountains and Komiza village in a distance. From the viewpoint we enjoy the descent all the way down to Komiza at the edge of the island. This is an important fishing village, but also worth mentioning is the delicious ice cream! Having refuelled we embark on another climb that takes us up to the top of the island, which again is rewarded with beautiful views.
After some (much welcomed) flat cycling through a quiet valley we descend back to Vis in time to enjoy a lovely sunset from the boat.
For the evening main course we are treated with freshly caught fish and our Croatian guide Sasha gives us a lesson in the Croatian language. Afterwards some of us decide to put our new knowledge to good use and explore Vis’s nightlife (a tiny bar with 80s medleys on the stereo) before heading off to bed for some much needed rest.


DAY 5 – Hvar Island
In the morning we head for Hvar Island where the boat sets anchor at Hvar Village, a very picturesque town nestled between the sea and mountains. With some free time scheduled I take the opportunity to explore the village, while some of my fellow travellers decide to make the most of this warm and sunny day and hang out on the boat’s sun deck.
During lunch we get the regular run through of the first stage of today’s cycle, which is very straightforward - a 10km uphill cycle followed by 10 descend to Starigrad. Later in the afternoon we have a relaxing roundtrip cycle to Jelsa, where we all enjoy the best ice cream so far on the trip! (In Croatia it seems easier to find and ice cream shop than a grocery store!).
Arriving back to Starigrad our dinner is followed by a lesson in Croatia’s geography, which involves finding out that the country boosts over 1000 islands (most of them are inhabited)!
This evening some of us visit a very cosy cocktail bar where Croatians, Germans, Americans & Swedish all swap stories, and where downstairs a room full of sailors insist on buying us the traditional Croatian drink Rakija. Luckily we escaped through the back door!














DAY 6 – Brac Island
While enjoying breakfast onboard we are transferred to Brac Island where we will begin our cycle after lunch. Before this we have time for a (very refreshing) morning swim at the nearby beach called “the Golden Horn”, named after its horn shape pointing out from the mainland. Today’s cycle, that brings us to the village Supetar, begins with a fairly challenging 8km climb followed by undulating terrain through vineyards and quiet countryside until we make a “beer stop” in the tiny seaside village of Postira.
After another 3-course meal (I could get used to this!) our guide Sascha gives us an insight to Croatia’s very interesting history.
Total distance today was 50km.

DAY 7 – Split
In the morning the ship brings us to Split, the second biggest city in Croatia and on UNESCO’s world heritage list because of its old city and the Dioclatian Palace, built from local white limestone. Today’s cycle is only 15km up to a viewpoint of the city, while the afternoon is spent in the markets where they sell everything from jewellery, art, clothes and food. During lunch onboard we cruise to our final destination, Trogir. This is a lovely village with a cosy old town where we enjoy a chat and a coffee on the main square. The final dinner on the boat consists of a spread of Parma ham, cheese, 3 different types of sausages, burgers, chicken skewers, chips…the list goes on! We are also awarded with a meringue cake that the captain sets on fire (yes he was meant to do that) to celebrate our last night and also the crew’s last night for the season.



DAY 8 – Trip ends after breakfast
I am flying back to Dublin from Dubrovnik, which means I have to embark on a 6-hour bus journey back from Trogir. The distance itself is only about 250km, but with “roller coaster” roads through the mountains and along the coastline the travel time is much longer that you would expect. The scenery is beautiful though so the trip feels shorter. On my last night in Dubrovnik I stay in a hotel by the harbour (right where the boat set off from a week earlier). If you plan to stay extra nights in Dubrovnik you tend to get a better deal when avoiding the area by the old town. You certainly get better value for your money, and the old town is just a couple of minutes bus ride away.

Portugal - Megalithic Heritage of Alentejo

After the end of what we laughingly called a summer this year in Ireland, it was with great delight that I ventured to the more reliably sunny Portugal to try out a new offering for 2009.

Day 1 - arrival Day

It was an early start to ensure making the 7.35 flight from Dublin to Lisbon.
There was no doubting the change of location when dis-embarking from the plane - the sun was shining and the temperature was a good 10C warmer!

A nice touch on this tour is collection from the airport or downtown hotel, keeping things nice and simple. There was a delay waiting for one couple who had a later arrival time, which allowed the rest of the group a chance to enjoy a beer and get to know each other a little.

On the arrival of our missing couple, there was a transfer of around 90 minutes to our lodging.

This was a true "agri-tourism" establishment with a modern twist. There were chickens and cows etc on the rampage outside. But the property was built around a courtyard and on the inside there were many of the features you would expect of a good class hotel, including a swimming pool.

Our first task of the evening was to try a little Port, whilst getting our induction meeting from Jose and Cristina - our hosts for the week.

Our talk included the handing out of a few items - water bottle, small front pannier, details and perhaps most interesting of all, a packet of wipes to assist in the using of natures toilet. Either we were cycling to remote places or Portugal did not do public toilets.

After our talk, we adjourned to the nearby dinner table where we were served with Dinner.The starter kind of resembled an English/Irish Fry up.....it was egg and bacon but without the black and white pudding.
This was followed by a tasty Spinach soup (good to get some greens in) and then crispy Duck served with rice. This was all washed down with some local Red Wine.


Our First nights lodgings and hosts for the week, Jose and Cristina.

Day 2 - AKA Megalithic day

Breakfast was served from 9am - so no need to set the alarm clock (especially as Portugal is on the same time zone as London and Dublin).

Surprisingly there was a fair choice of breakfast items - not quite the full Irish, but certainly more than you would experience in many European hotels.
Having had our fill and brought out our bags it was time to try out the bikes.

These were very good Hybrid bikes, but certainly more in the style of mountain bikes than we would have in Ireland. Front shocks, no mudguards and disc brakes and all gents frame style.
The impression was (later proved correct), that this would involve some off-road cycling.

So then it was to the cycling.
This tour was a fully guided one - Jose led on his bike and Cristina drove the SAG wagon.

We began leaving down a small track and then turning onto a quiet country road. Very quickly we stopped to take in a Dolmen that had been converted into a small chapel. This is where the megalithic heritage comes in - all around this area are many such Dolmens and stone circles.

This first day of cycling included several stop offs at various megalithic sites - some of which were really impressive - as well as the remains of a Roman Villa. There was also an ancient fertility symbol that as the parent of 3 children already, I was keeping well clear off.

There were three real surprises of the day;

1) Being the amount of off-road cycling. Make no mistake this was not mountain biking, but some of the trails were pretty bumpy and there was quite a steep 3km up and down on a dirt track (Hopefully some of the pictures give a fair view of this).

Mountain goat territory?

2) The picnic that was set up by a Dolmen. This was a welcome stop off and included some nice local cheeses and fresh fruit etc

3) The price of things. I stopped for an espresso in a small village which cost me all of 60c and also bought everyone a beer beside the Roman Temple in Evera which cost 13 euro for 9 beers.

The oddity of the day was that on arrival at our hotel, Jose and Christina left for home as the next day was our rest day. Evera was certainly a great looking town and is a UNESCO world heritage site, but it was a little strange to be left to fend for ourselves so early in the week, especially having not built up the rapore with the fellow cyclists as you would after say 2 or 3 days.

Distance - 57km

Day 3 - Rest Day

This was the rest day and a chance to do some exploring and shopping in Evera. There are a few sights in the town as well as a number of restaurants and coffee shops. Interestingly in the car park between the hotel and the walls of the old town a bustling market had popped up offering the chance to buy just about anything you wanted - especially if that thing was some knocked off Armani sunglasses or other quasi designer label items!

Day 4 - aka Cork Day!

The day began a little earlier than others with a "meet up" time of 9am. This was due to taking a small transfer, around 20 minutes, to a small hill top castle village.



After heading down hill and along the road for a few km, we joined one of the old upaved tracks that brings you into the heart of the countryside (and face to face with cows with quite large horns). Jose called this Cork day as we passed a number of Cork Trees en-route and it was a scheduled stop to explain more in depth the markings, types of tree etc etc.

A bit more cycling brought us on to another picnic, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Todays specialilty was a quiche and a very tasty cake - of course there was always at least 2 types of cheese on hand. By now it seemed to me that cheese was the Portugese equivalent of the potato - no meal was complete without it, except even in Ireland we struggle to sneak potatoes into breakfast.

The afternoon saw us take a bit of a climb to a beautiful preserved village. There was then time for a stop in the larger town of Estremoz for a coffee/beer/ice cream before venturing through some vineyards to our rather unique accommodation at Rio de Moinhos, which consisted of small apartments made out of an old abandoned village.

Home sweet home......

The nearest village was 2km away, which we were driven to for our dinner. Other than us, there was no-one else in the restaurant, but this may have just been due to Portugal playing Albania at football in the bar next door. Emabarrassingly for Portugal they drew nil all at home......

The dinner, in addition to cheese of course, included a rather tasty wild boar and a choice of desserts that included the curiously named Camels drool!

Distance - 47kms

Day 5 - aka Marble Day

The day began shrouded in mist which gave a lovely hue to the surrounding vineyards. This made the temp. quite a bit cooler than what we had previously experienced, although it seemed unlikely to stay that way. After arriving in the nearby village, the cycle began to climb, so it was not long before we started to get warm up. Our first stop was a marble mine where you could see the marble being cut. Our journey took us past several marble mines and facilities servicing the marble trade. We stopped at the town of Villa Vicosa, which seemed to be the centre of marble country as everything seemed to be made of the stuff.

We then continue on a bit more mountain goat country (ie off road) until our well earned picnic lunch.

After lunch was a nice undulating 15kms to the town of Juromenha. Here was (another) castle on a hill overlooking the river Guadiana and the Spanish Border.
We then returned along the same road and then Jose gave us an option to take offroad route or on road route. We rather surprisingly voted for the off-road option.

The last section saw a steep climb for around 1km to our destination, Terena. We were greeted on arrival by a rather classy South African lady who owned a wonderful house.

Here we enjoyed a really great dinner with some very nice and plentiful wine.

Distance - 73kms

Day 6 - AKA Serengeti Day

Today began with the breakfast of all breakfasts. Freshly squeezed OJ, Espressos/cappachinos, fresh fruit, fresh bread. This was certainly the pick of the trip.

After around 7km on road we took a side turning to head across country. This was to experience the Serengati plain type of landscape for which the area is known for. Indeed Stella, the South African lady fell in love with this area for it reminded her of home (presumeably helped by the lack of real danger from truly dangerous animals or violent crime).

The cycle today was very short, although there was a 1.5km climb at the end to reach the village of Monsaraz. We had lunch just outside the town walls in a picnic area that gave great views over the surrounding countryside.

Again the hotel offered some very good accommodation in an interesting building. The town itself was very attractive, if somewhat quiet. It was like someone had stolen all the people, but I am sure like many countries rural flight of the young is a real problem.
Dinner that night was in a restaurant across the street from the hotel. At this dinner we were each presented with a rather snazy cycling jersey.

Distance - 41kms

Ghost-town?

Day 7 - Vineyard Day

Being at the top of a hill, the day began with a nice downhill. Our first stop was the nearby vineyard just a few km away in the valley. Here we were introduced to Simon who was to be our guide of the vineyard. What was different on this vineyard tour, was the fact that Simon had his own bike and actually took us around the vineyard highlighting various features, vines etc rather than just explaining things. This really added something to the trip. Of course we also got a chance to taste some of the wines which you naturally would expect.

After leaving the vineyard we cycled our longest on road section of the trip across a large bridge and on to Mourao. This was a pretty town, again with a castle on top of a hill.

We returned across the bridge before taking some off road trails before reaching the outskirts of S. Pedro Do Corval. Here we had our last picnic of the trip. This village is famous for its pottery so we cycled the 300 metres to a nearby pottery to check out the local wares. After which continued for the last few kms to Reguengos de Monsaraz, and the end of our ride.

That night we headed by van to a restaurant on the other side of town for our final meal together.

Distance - 50kms

Day 8

After breakfast we left just before 10am for the 2 hour drive back to Lisbon, where almost everyone had determined to stay for a couple of days to explore. I would recommend anyone to do this either at the start or finish of the ride if they have not been to Lisbon before.

Venice Lands Cycling - By Sofia Hansson

Relaxing Cycling & Rustic Venetian Charm…Magnifico!

For our 2008 program we thought we should check out a new addition to our already popular Italian tours. Italy is such a great country to enjoy a holiday/vacation….good food, good wine etc. However Italy tends to offer a few hills which can put off the less frequent cyclist. We are frequently asked about whether there is something “a little less hilly” and finally I think we have found it!

Nestled between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea the tour encompasses a broad mixture of scenery, meandering along rivers and rural flatlands, mountain backdrops and ‘islandhopping’ across two miniature islands. Combining charming towns and bustling villages the fascinating architecture this tour boasts displays a unique fusion of the “old” and “new” Italian way of life. With a very flat itinerary it makes a great tour to start off with for those with little cycling experience. At the end of the day you will still have plenty of energy left to soak up the Italian scenery and atmosphere.

This tour starts and finishes in Vicenza (alternatively from Mestre on some self-guided departures), which is a nice and cosy city characterized by buildings designed by Andrea Palladio, one of Italy’s renowned architects.
To reach Vicenza you can fly to Venice Marco Polo Airport or Verona Airport.
They are both well served by the train stations in Mestre (Venice) and Verona with frequent train departures for Vicenza.
British Airways, Ryanair and Aerlingus all operate direct flights from the UK or Dublin to either Venice or Verona.

My journey began in Treviso (day 3 / 4 of the itinerary). This means that our first day’s cycling would be the 4th day if you were to take this tour.

Day 1 (Day 4 of tour itinerary)
An impressive continental breakfast spread in the four star hotel in Treviso ensured I was more than ready to take on the first day’s cycling!
My 21-speed bike was well equipped with front pannier bag as well as one back pannier, so I could bring numerous clothes changes if I wished (although with 28°C in the shade the only thing necessary to pack was the sun cream).
The cycle from Treviso starts off on leisurely cycle paths along the river Sile, and continues with a mixture of rural countryside, mountain backdrops and villages.
The distance today is deliberately short (38km) to allow time for the afternoon/evening visit to the classic tourist spot Venice. The accommodation is in Mestre, which is on the mainland just outside Venice, and after installing myself in the hotel I headed for the canals and narrow streets of “the city on water”. Venice is very easily accessible by the local bus, (only 3 minutes walk from the hotel and journey time is about 10 minutes), so staying in Mestre was certainly ideal. For those who are determined to stay in central Venice a surcharge when booking will facilitate this.
When arriving in Venice cross over any one of the countless footbridges and suddenly you’re transported into another world of gondolas and boats, a labyrinth of side streets and a plethora of romantic walkways – it is challenge not to get lost!
A must see when visiting Venice is world famous San Marco Square, located at the far end of the city. It can be a bit tricky to find it, but if you peservere in following the signs on each corner you will finally there, and it has to be said, it is really worth the walk! With the stunning Basilica overlooking the square bathed in classical music in the evening time, there is a lovely atmosphere to embrace.

Day 2 (Day 5 of tour itinerary)
A very exciting day, with cycling on the two tiny Islands Lido and Pellestrina just south of Venice.
Departing from the Hotel in Mestre you will reach the 4km bridge “della Liberta”, that connects Venice with the mainland. Here I pedalled over the bridge and reached the ferry port for the first boat connection of the day.
I was thankful for the high temperatures (this is after all October) as the boat trip offered a superb view of Venice from the upper deck.
This boat connection (which is more of a sightseeing trip) takes about 35 minutes.
Cycling on the narrow Lido Island was a very peaceful experience complemented by a lovely sea breeze. The path along the “Murazzo” (breakwater) is 6km long and offered me a great opportunity to stop for a swim.

The second ferry connection (which takes about 5 minutes) brought me to Pellestrina Island, which was the highlight of the day. A picturesque fishing village, with the quiet lagoon on one side and colourful rustic houses on the other, this place was truly unique. Here I was able to engage in animated friendly encounters with non-English speaking locals (carrying their bread in their cycling baskets). One elderly gentleman even cycled to the ferry with me to ensure I did not get lost.
The last ferry connection (travel time about 20 minutes) is for Chioggia, also referred to as “Little Venice”. The hotel is located right where the boat sets anchor, on the seafront in the old quarter of the city. With this being a fishing village there was little need to look beyond seafood and sampling of the local cuisine. The scampi looked great and indeed it did not fail to impress (as neither did the local wine)! Today’s distance is, an ever so manageable, 33km, but there are the three ferry connections to take.



Day 4 (Day 6 of tour itinerary)
Todays cycle is dominated by cycling along the two rivers - Bacchiglione and Brenta. These rivers were the primary method of bringing trade in and out of the region. The cycle then continues along quite roads with charming countryside.
The lunch stop is the city of Stra where it is possible to visit the Villa Pisani.

This was an impressive looking building, but to be honest, with such lovely weather and the prospect of heading back to cooler Ireland looming, I opted to stay outside and enjoy the sunshine.
Today’s destination, Padova is has one of Europe’s oldest and most glorious universities. This city is renowned for its rich history and culture. Here a traditional Italian dinner can be enjoyed and of course Padova’s trademark drink the “spritz” has to be tried (it surely would have been rude not to!).
This stage of the tour is quiet long (60km), but as it runs along flat roads the distance is hardly noticeable.


Day 5 (Day 7 of tour itinerary)
Leaving Padova behind, the Bacchiglione River points the way out of the city towards Costozza, a small town situated at the foot of the Berici hills.
The village is famous for the bar “botte del covolo” that, in the past, was used to conserve ice (which I was glad to find out as the day’s unusually humid temperature was beginning to take its toll). I enjoyed a light lunch on the rooftop of this “ice bar” restaurant with a mountain view, followed by an espresso a la classic style (taken at the counter to prevent it from going cold!)



Further along the way I passed Villa Rotunda, the most famous of the Palladian villas constructed by Andrea Palladio. Just before entering Vicenza I also got to see the Villa Valmarana ai Nani with its marvellous frescoes by Tiepolo.
Arriving in Vicenza I was taken aback by the beautiful architecture and cosy atmosphere that is indicative of this city. Being the birthplace of the aforementioned Palladio he certainly has put his mark on the city. Total distance today was 48km


Day 6 (Day 2 of tour itinerary)
Pedalling along cycle paths and quiet roads towards the foothills of the Alps until I reached the castle village of Marostica. Established in 1372 this unique town is characterized by the surrounding castle walls (through which unauthorized cars are forbidden to enter) and the Chess Square where human chess games take place every second year!
The destination is Bassano del Grappa, a charming town situated on the Brenta River, and famous for its beautiful wooden bridge and the “Grappa”. Total distance today was 40km.

Day 7 (Day 3 of tour itinerary)
One of the tour’s scenic highlights, today presents the only uphill section of the tour; the 1km climb to Asolo village, which affords an impressive view.
This stage is the longest and is the most demanding stage on the tour, the total distance being 62km. However, the landscape is truly beautiful, and reminded me of the Tuscany region of Italy. Leaving Asolo behind there is a nice downhill section and the tour continues through the Prosecco vineyards and on to Maser village where a visit to Villa Barbaro, one of the masterpieces of Palladio should not be missed (great lunch stop).
The day ends in Treviso, the ‘water city’ famous for its wine and “radicchio rosso” (red chicory), and a city that surprisingly suffered extensive destruction during World War II
The country-town atmosphere can be soaked up on one of the many “piazzas” that the city boasts.

Slovenia Cycling - Wine And Wellness Impressions

In the name of hard work it was necessary to take myself off to one of my favourite countries (Slovenia) and try out some homegrown wines and thermal spas, so as to be sure it would be something that would be worth offering for our 2008 programme.

This tour begins in the second city of Slovenia, Maribor. The good news is that Maribor has direct flights from (London) Stansted, the bad news is that Ryanair is the provider. So for those not experienced with booking a Ryanair flight...beware. There are several default options (such as travel insurance, priority boarding) that you need to uncheck if you don't want them. Otherwise your base flight price of 5.99 or whatever will soon turn into 100+ once you have added your baggage etc. There baggage limit is also 15kg (about 32lbs) which is pretty low for many people, especially when biking and requiring a few changes.

There is further good news, though. Slovenia is now a fully fledged Euro member, so no need to change your money and mess around with Tolars anymore. It is also still pretty cheap....€1.50 for a beer. Also for those who have not visited this county before, the people are embarrassingly good at English and seem to make friendliness a national pastime.

So, Day 1

Maribor airport is extremely small - the arrival of the Ryanair flight would appear to be a major event, so passport control and baggage (which is physically handed to you) is negotiated in a few minutes. I was met at the airport by our man on the ground, Saso, but a public bus can be taken cheaply to the centre of town. The town of Maribor (approx 100,000) is a very pleasant place to hang out with some very nice shops, cafes and bars, especially down by the river (an area known as Lent). The hotel is very centrally located, just of the main square (hotel Orel). It has also been recently renovated. I borrowed a bike and toured around the town a little before it got dark (this is November, so short days) and was amazed how quickly I was in the countryside with vineyards. I was also impressed by the number of bike lanes. Dinner included a rather interesting beer that was bright Green, which seemed odd having come from Ireland. I was informed that this should be one of the few beers to take, as this is wine country!

Day 2

Took charge of the bike, which was an interesting orange colour (this had nothing to do with the green beer, honest!). These are trekking style bikes, with 21 gears (all shimano equipment with rapid fire) , rack on the back, rear pannier, computer and map holder. So all seemed in order there. There was a nice road book and a laminated map to follow. Additionally there were stickers on most of the lamposts at major turns.....this was surely idiot proof.......

Maribor is left by following a cycle path along the river, so no urban fringe traffic to contend with and also a nice flat start to get going with. The route then took to some quiet backroads and moved a little away from the river with some slight inclines, that afforded some nice views. The whole day was only 32 km and with fairly modest inclines to deal with. There were a couple of dirt track sections, but in the main the route is paved. The destination was Ptuj (which is somehow pronounced Petooey). This is a beautiful town, the oldest in the country, with a castle on a hill, a market in the centre and a lovely family run hotel right in the heart of the place.

Day 3

Another nice start to the day (not just the sunshine and 14C which for November is pretty good), but the cycle. It begins crossing a pedestrian/cycle bridge before joining a path along the embankment of the river. Along todays route is a pancake house , which kind of made me regret my breakfast choices. There were some really pleasant villages to cycle through, although there was a short 1km section on a busier road - nothing to heavy, but more than experienced thus far. The town of Ormoz was interesting as it is a border town (with Croatia) and is one of the few places to have any noticeable impact from the 1991 War. The centre had several new buildings due to the bombings. Around 3km after Ormoz the road started to climb, which is easily the hardest section of the tour. Basically you leave one valley to join another, there were some downs and ups, but overall it was about 100 meters elevation gain, with a couple of short steeper sections. Once at the top the scenery took on a new look, very similar to Tuscany.

The accommodation was not far away (total for day was another modest 37km). The owner could not meet me straight away as apparently he was busy with 2 deers that were shot that day. One guesses the Venison is a good call.....and indeed it was! The place is known as Jeruzalem (apparently a crusades stop off point). Well the first stop off point was the cellar, where some tasting of some very pleasant whites was to be had.

Day 4

For the first time the day does not start either on a path or on the flat, but instead on the quiet roads, but up a bit of a hill. It is not a particularly big hill, but somehow the previous wine tasting (lets be honest, less tasting more drinking) gives it more bite than it should have. Luckily the next hills are down and we are back to the familiar of small towns and villages and quiet roads. There is an optional detour to a spa and another to see one of the last working water mills.

Todays destination is Moravske Toplice. This is a spa town that for the tour proper offers 2 nights of r+r, but for me, just a single night. The hotel is modern and basically built around 7 (I didn't count them all to be sure) pools, Sauna, treatments etc. They all utilise the thermal waters, an ideal hangover cure perhaps? By 5pm it was freezing outside so perfect for testing the indoor/outdoor large pool that was a lovely 34C. The use of the facilities is included in the package, so its a great spot to hang out. Total for today was 45km.

Day 6 (or 5 for me!)

The day starts out on some really nice flat country roads. There is then an interesting river crossing, its not really a ferry, a kind of boat with pulleys. The river is quite fast moving, but I guess being one of the oldest crossings of its type, then it must be safe enough, right?

After the crossing, then the ride gets a little hillier again - but nothing dramatic. Todays stop is in Drbetinci, which is really a collection of houses. The accommodation is an agri tourism, which means another wine cellar and some more tastings.... Total for today, the longest of the tour a still modest 51km.

Day 7 (or 6 for me!)

A nice start to the day with some downhill! Again some lovely villages and pleasant scenery to enjoy. After Trnokskaivas the terrain gets a little hillier again but afford some great views. The route then heads for 2km on an unpaved track through the forest before descending onto quiet roads again. For the final section the route rejoins the path back along the river and into Maribor. Last day was 42km.