Day 1 - arrival Day
It was an early start to ensure making the 7.35 flight from Dublin to Lisbon.
There was no doubting the change of location when dis-embarking from the plane - the sun was shining and the temperature was a good 10C warmer!
There was no doubting the change of location when dis-embarking from the plane - the sun was shining and the temperature was a good 10C warmer!
A nice touch on this tour is collection from the airport or downtown hotel, keeping things nice and simple. There was a delay waiting for one couple who had a later arrival time, which allowed the rest of the group a chance to enjoy a beer and get to know each other a little.
On the arrival of our missing couple, there was a transfer of around 90 minutes to our lodging.
This was a true "agri-tourism" establishment with a modern twist. There were chickens and cows etc on the rampage outside. But the property was built around a courtyard and on the inside there were many of the features you would expect of a good class hotel, including a swimming pool.
Our first task of the evening was to try a little Port, whilst getting our induction meeting from Jose and Cristina - our hosts for the week.
Our talk included the handing out of a few items - water bottle, small front pannier, details and perhaps most interesting of all, a packet of wipes to assist in the using of natures toilet. Either we were cycling to remote places or Portugal did not do public toilets.
After our talk, we adjourned to the nearby dinner table where we were served with Dinner.The starter kind of resembled an English/Irish Fry up.....it was egg and bacon but without the black and white pudding.
This was followed by a tasty Spinach soup (good to get some greens in) and then crispy Duck served with rice. This was all washed down with some local Red Wine.
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Our First nights lodgings and hosts for the week, Jose and Cristina.
This was followed by a tasty Spinach soup (good to get some greens in) and then crispy Duck served with rice. This was all washed down with some local Red Wine.
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Our First nights lodgings and hosts for the week, Jose and Cristina.
Day 2 - AKA Megalithic day
Breakfast was served from 9am - so no need to set the alarm clock (especially as Portugal is on the same time zone as London and Dublin).
Surprisingly there was a fair choice of breakfast items - not quite the full Irish, but certainly more than you would experience in many European hotels.
Having had our fill and brought out our bags it was time to try out the bikes.
Surprisingly there was a fair choice of breakfast items - not quite the full Irish, but certainly more than you would experience in many European hotels.
Having had our fill and brought out our bags it was time to try out the bikes.
These were very good Hybrid bikes, but certainly more in the style of mountain bikes than we would have in Ireland. Front shocks, no mudguards and disc brakes and all gents frame style.
The impression was (later proved correct), that this would involve some off-road cycling.
So then it was to the cycling.
This tour was a fully guided one - Jose led on his bike and Cristina drove the SAG wagon.
This tour was a fully guided one - Jose led on his bike and Cristina drove the SAG wagon.
We began leaving down a small track and then turning onto a quiet country road. Very quickly we stopped to take in a Dolmen that had been converted into a small chapel. This is where the megalithic heritage comes in - all around this area are many such Dolmens and stone circles.
This first day of cycling included several stop offs at various megalithic sites - some of which were really impressive - as well as the remains of a Roman Villa. There was also an ancient fertility symbol that as the parent of 3 children already, I was keeping well clear off.
There were three real surprises of the day;
1) Being the amount of off-road cycling. Make no mistake this was not mountain biking, but some of the trails were pretty bumpy and there was quite a steep 3km up and down on a dirt track (Hopefully some of the pictures give a fair view of this).
There were three real surprises of the day;
1) Being the amount of off-road cycling. Make no mistake this was not mountain biking, but some of the trails were pretty bumpy and there was quite a steep 3km up and down on a dirt track (Hopefully some of the pictures give a fair view of this).
Mountain goat territory?
2) The picnic that was set up by a Dolmen. This was a welcome stop off and included some nice local cheeses and fresh fruit etc
3) The price of things. I stopped for an espresso in a small village which cost me all of 60c and also bought everyone a beer beside the Roman Temple in Evera which cost 13 euro for 9 beers.
The oddity of the day was that on arrival at our hotel, Jose and Christina left for home as the next day was our rest day. Evera was certainly a great looking town and is a UNESCO world heritage site, but it was a little strange to be left to fend for ourselves so early in the week, especially having not built up the rapore with the fellow cyclists as you would after say 2 or 3 days.
Distance - 57km
Day 3 - Rest Day
This was the rest day and a chance to do some exploring and shopping in Evera. There are a few sights in the town as well as a number of restaurants and coffee shops. Interestingly in the car park between the hotel and the walls of the old town a bustling market had popped up offering the chance to buy just about anything you wanted - especially if that thing was some knocked off Armani sunglasses or other quasi designer label items!
This was the rest day and a chance to do some exploring and shopping in Evera. There are a few sights in the town as well as a number of restaurants and coffee shops. Interestingly in the car park between the hotel and the walls of the old town a bustling market had popped up offering the chance to buy just about anything you wanted - especially if that thing was some knocked off Armani sunglasses or other quasi designer label items!
Day 4 - aka Cork Day!
The day began a little earlier than others with a "meet up" time of 9am. This was due to taking a small transfer, around 20 minutes, to a small hill top castle village.
After heading down hill and along the road for a few km, we joined one of the old upaved tracks that brings you into the heart of the countryside (and face to face with cows with quite large horns). Jose called this Cork day as we passed a number of Cork Trees en-route and it was a scheduled stop to explain more in depth the markings, types of tree etc etc.
After heading down hill and along the road for a few km, we joined one of the old upaved tracks that brings you into the heart of the countryside (and face to face with cows with quite large horns). Jose called this Cork day as we passed a number of Cork Trees en-route and it was a scheduled stop to explain more in depth the markings, types of tree etc etc.
A bit more cycling brought us on to another picnic, seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Todays specialilty was a quiche and a very tasty cake - of course there was always at least 2 types of cheese on hand. By now it seemed to me that cheese was the Portugese equivalent of the potato - no meal was complete without it, except even in Ireland we struggle to sneak potatoes into breakfast.
The afternoon saw us take a bit of a climb to a beautiful preserved village. There was then time for a stop in the larger town of Estremoz for a coffee/beer/ice cream before venturing through some vineyards to our rather unique accommodation at Rio de Moinhos, which consisted of small apartments made out of an old abandoned village.
The afternoon saw us take a bit of a climb to a beautiful preserved village. There was then time for a stop in the larger town of Estremoz for a coffee/beer/ice cream before venturing through some vineyards to our rather unique accommodation at Rio de Moinhos, which consisted of small apartments made out of an old abandoned village.
Home sweet home......
The nearest village was 2km away, which we were driven to for our dinner. Other than us, there was no-one else in the restaurant, but this may have just been due to Portugal playing Albania at football in the bar next door. Emabarrassingly for Portugal they drew nil all at home......
The dinner, in addition to cheese of course, included a rather tasty wild boar and a choice of desserts that included the curiously named Camels drool!
The dinner, in addition to cheese of course, included a rather tasty wild boar and a choice of desserts that included the curiously named Camels drool!
Distance - 47kms
Day 5 - aka Marble Day
The day began shrouded in mist which gave a lovely hue to the surrounding vineyards. This made the temp. quite a bit cooler than what we had previously experienced, although it seemed unlikely to stay that way. After arriving in the nearby village, the cycle began to climb, so it was not long before we started to get warm up. Our first stop was a marble mine where you could see the marble being cut. Our journey took us past several marble mines and facilities servicing the marble trade. We stopped at the town of Villa Vicosa, which seemed to be the centre of marble country as everything seemed to be made of the stuff.
We then continue on a bit more mountain goat country (ie off road) until our well earned picnic lunch.
After lunch was a nice undulating 15kms to the town of Juromenha. Here was (another) castle on a hill overlooking the river Guadiana and the Spanish Border.
We then returned along the same road and then Jose gave us an option to take offroad route or on road route. We rather surprisingly voted for the off-road option.
The last section saw a steep climb for around 1km to our destination, Terena. We were greeted on arrival by a rather classy South African lady who owned a wonderful house.
We then returned along the same road and then Jose gave us an option to take offroad route or on road route. We rather surprisingly voted for the off-road option.
The last section saw a steep climb for around 1km to our destination, Terena. We were greeted on arrival by a rather classy South African lady who owned a wonderful house.
Here we enjoyed a really great dinner with some very nice and plentiful wine.
Distance - 73kms
Day 6 - AKA Serengeti Day
Today began with the breakfast of all breakfasts. Freshly squeezed OJ, Espressos/cappachinos, fresh fruit, fresh bread. This was certainly the pick of the trip.
After around 7km on road we took a side turning to head across country. This was to experience the Serengati plain type of landscape for which the area is known for. Indeed Stella, the South African lady fell in love with this area for it reminded her of home (presumeably helped by the lack of real danger from truly dangerous animals or violent crime).
The cycle today was very short, although there was a 1.5km climb at the end to reach the village of Monsaraz. We had lunch just outside the town walls in a picnic area that gave great views over the surrounding countryside.
Again the hotel offered some very good accommodation in an interesting building. The town itself was very attractive, if somewhat quiet. It was like someone had stolen all the people, but I am sure like many countries rural flight of the young is a real problem.
Dinner that night was in a restaurant across the street from the hotel. At this dinner we were each presented with a rather snazy cycling jersey.
Distance - 41kms
Ghost-town?
Day 7 - Vineyard Day
Being at the top of a hill, the day began with a nice downhill. Our first stop was the nearby vineyard just a few km away in the valley. Here we were introduced to Simon who was to be our guide of the vineyard. What was different on this vineyard tour, was the fact that Simon had his own bike and actually took us around the vineyard highlighting various features, vines etc rather than just explaining things. This really added something to the trip. Of course we also got a chance to taste some of the wines which you naturally would expect.
After leaving the vineyard we cycled our longest on road section of the trip across a large bridge and on to Mourao. This was a pretty town, again with a castle on top of a hill.
We returned across the bridge before taking some off road trails before reaching the outskirts of S. Pedro Do Corval. Here we had our last picnic of the trip. This village is famous for its pottery so we cycled the 300 metres to a nearby pottery to check out the local wares. After which continued for the last few kms to Reguengos de Monsaraz, and the end of our ride.
That night we headed by van to a restaurant on the other side of town for our final meal together.
Distance - 50kms
Day 8
After breakfast we left just before 10am for the 2 hour drive back to Lisbon, where almost everyone had determined to stay for a couple of days to explore. I would recommend anyone to do this either at the start or finish of the ride if they have not been to Lisbon before.
